Material is very important when ordering a pair of custom jeans. Please read the details that pertain to each fabric and make sure you know what you are ordering.
**Any material that says “unsanforized” means that it is loom-state and will shrink (5-10%). However, you can choose upon checkout if you would like the material to be preshrunk. The rest of the materials are sanforized and should not have any problems with shrinkage (1-3%).
K-508N 13oz Sanforized right hand twill. This material is woven in turkey for the European market. It is guaranteed to beautifully soften up and be a great pair.
K-506R 12.75oz sanforized right hand twill. This is a funky BLUE denim that has a reddish brown coating which gives it the appearance of being brown. It will fade into blue then into white as seen in the top portion of the sample.
K-509RD 13.5oz Right hand twill. Great shade of green/ olive. This denim was woven at Nihon menpu, so you know that the colour is rich and will fade great.
S&P short for “salt & pepper” is woven in France by an amazing small mill, Manufacture Metis. I has a decent weight for a dressier style pant or a lightweight work pant. Also available for shirts.
I-180OD 16oz Unsanforized right hand twill. This is a beautiful material woven in Japan by the famous Nihon Menpu. Guaranteed to have beautiful fades as the dying is second to none and its quite stiff.
I-179W 14.5oz Sanforized left hand twill. If you love “nep”, this material is for you. It has a very nice texture and its guaranteed to get softer and smoother to the touch as it ages due to the weave being left hand twill.
I-178PD 11.5oz Unsanforized right hand twill. This denim is for those that want a lighter weight material without sacrificing the texture and character. It’s going to age beautifully as its from Nihon Menpu.
i-YD01 11oz Unsanforized right hand twill. This denim will become quite dark after its first soak, or wash. (Please specify if you want me to do this before i make it as it’s unsanforized). It has a very loosely woven feeling to it. A very good lightweight alternative.
I-177W 10oz This denim is PERFECT for a great workwear pair. Lightweight but rigid as its woven a little tighter than normal. This denim has a nice hairy texture. Yes, hairy is nice…..
i-176W 10oz This denim feels heavier than 10 oz right off the bat. However, it breaks in beautifully as both the warp and weft are indigo dyed. It’s a great denim to break in for some real deep tones and striking fades.
i-175W 10oz This denim is a perfect chore coat material. It would also be super nice as a shirt as well.
i-174BD 14oz This denim is a little lighter in colour than most. It has a lot of vertical streaks which adds character.
i-173BP This is a soft to the touch chambray that makes for a very nice shirt. Once you see it in person you wont regret it!
i-172BD 8.2oz light blue chambray is always in! click here to see a shirt I made with it!
i-171WR 13.75oz This denim was woven on cone mills’ old shuttle looms at their new home, Vidalia. But, who cares about that… it fades great and is super soft on the inside! link to see a pair I made with it!
i-170RD 14.25oz Right hand twill. This denim has a soft hand as the 50/50 blend makes for an easy wear. It has a lot of interesting texture created by both the weave and the linen.
i-168PD unsanforized 13.6oz (feels heavier) right hand twill. This double indigo denim has an large amount of slub which makes the fading potential amazing! The smaller swatch is the washed version of the raw larger piece.
i-167PD 14.5oz Great slub, great texture, loose weave and great fading potential. highly recommend for a great sanforized material!
i-167WD 9.3oz sanforized right hand twill. This denim is super lightweight and I’d recommend it in a shirt any day! If you wanted some super lightweight jeans for summer this could be an option for you.
i-166SGD 19.3oz Sanforized right hand twill. This material is very dense and heavy. It has a very deep colour and the selvage has gold and silver metallic yarns on either side. It’s an interesting material!
i-163RD 13.5oz (14.5oz after wash) unsanforized right hand twill. This material is amazing. I love the colour, the fades, the subtleties and just the overall way this one feels. Yes, I made myself a pair of these.. And yes, I like it… so much that I made myself another.
i-165RD 12.5oz unsanforized right hand twill. This denim is from the first batch of repros that was woven by cone in the early 2000’s. This denim is perfect for the “repro” obsessive or anyone who wants a pair in a classic true blue look.
i-120RGD 17oz (18 after wash) unsanforized right hand twill. (brought back by popular demand) This denim is nice and crispy, it has amazing fade potential. It is the exact same denim as i-120PD except for the selvage colour. Ive worn a few pairs made from this denim over the years.
i-120PD 17oz (18 after wash) unsanforized right hand twill. (brought back by popular demand) This denim is nice and crispy, it has amazing fade potential. It is the exact same denim as i-120RGD except for the selvage colour. Ive worn a few pairs made from this denim over the years.
i-161PD 18oz sanforized right hand twill. SUPER SLUB!! For anyone who likes a lot of slub and crazy fade patterns, this one is for you!!
i-137BR 15oz right hand twill – sanforized. This material is an easy wear (loose weave) with a lighter more “blue” look to it than usual.
i-154RD 13oz sanforized right hand twill. This denim has a lot of nep in a few colours, though the white fibers are easiest to see. The warp is made from your standard indigo rope dyed 100% cotton fibers, but the weft is made from cotton, acrylic, and polyester. This blend will make the weft look as if its woven with wool. The denim will fade just as any other denim will!
i-150W 14oz unsanforized right hand twill. This denim although woven in Thailand, has great depth of colour and fades amazingly. I definitely approve of its quality.
i-131G 13oz right hand twill – sanforized. This very dark indigo also has a “dirty” weft. It will produce some very yellowish fades. The shiny gold selvage is also a plus.
i-136RD 13oz Broken Twill – sanforized This denim has a very soft hand. It feels great on the skin because of its brushed underside.
i-135WA 13.8oz right hand twill – sanforized. This woven “Wabash” denim is a hit with the workwear crowd. Very tightly woven and result in crispy fades.
i-132RD 14.5oz right hand twill – sanforized. This denim has a “twisted weft” which basically means that the horizontal thread that is usually white is made up of two threads of different colours. This is a very loose weave, and that will make these a very easy wear.
denim i-125G 21oz unsanforized right hand twill. This beast is starchy, sturdy, and slubby. I bet this isn’t what comes to mind when you think of Chinese denim.
I-119RD 14.8 oz right hand twill. possibly the starchiest denim i have in the shop. guaranteed crispy fades.
i-110G 12oz sanforized right hand twill. This is a lightweight denim that has a bit of gold flair in its selvage id.
This cone mills twill fabric is great! It’s a great weight for a light jacket or jeans, but who’s brave enough right? I’ve made lots of heavy shirts with this material.
G-604GD 9oz sanforized chambray. This material makes for a great pair of business casual pants or a beautiful shirt. The sturdy chambray breaks in wonderfully to a soft full feeling.
G-603R 10 oz right hand twill. A very good option for a soft feeling, business style jean.
G-602G 12.5 oz left hand twill. this grey wears into a very smooth pair due to the weave pattern.
B-206G 12.5 oz left hand twill. This denim is black, but fades into a grey. has some linen woven into it.
B-212Rd 13oz sanforized right hand twill. It’s a great super black denim. It fades grey over time which will also leave it feeling soft to the touch. The pic above is its older fatter brother who weighs 15oz. They look identical though.
B-203P 10 oz right hand twill. very soft and easy to wear. has a bit of shine to it.
D-HIC 10.5oz unsanforized left hand twill. This yarn dyed material will only be up for a few pair as i only have a limited quantity. Nihon Menpu does it again with their eye for detail.
Rivets are a subtle way to bring out the colour in a pair of jeans. Mind you, they are not mandatory. You can have bar-tacks (straight or x’s) if you want.
The buttons that I use are nickel and toxic free.
The branded back cinche buckles were custom made for me by an artisan in Bangkok. The other ones are from YKK.
I use the finest leathers for all my patches. Treat your leather nicely and it will age beautifully. For all my vegan friends, pick the cloth patch.. I didn’t kill any cows.
I use a core-spun thread which has the fading properties of cotton with the strength of nylon.